Nearshore and Coastal Processes

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John Warner

As a scientist at the US Geological Survey (USGSG) Coastal and Marine Science Center in Woods Hole, I focus on understanding nearshore and coastal ocean processes using observations and numerical models, concentrating on the interactions of winds, waves, and coastal currents that generate nearshore morphological changes. This research strives to understand the physical processes that cause coastal change to ultimately improve our ability to predict these changes. One area of active research is the investigations of cross-shore processes such as wave asymmetry and wave-current interaction that drive cross-shore sediment transport. Summer students would have many opportunities, depending on their interest, such as analyzing data collected recently from a series of tripods measuring waves, water levels, bottom stress, seafloor bedforms, and sediment transport at Matanzas Inlet, FL. We also utilize numerical models to downscale simulations of large scale storm events to drive focused applications of storm impacts to examine nearshore processes such as impacts from Hurricane Matthew (2016) including surge, runup, and barrier island breaching. The combinations of observations and numerical models provide a more comprehensive overview of the processes driving coastal change.

USGS Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center

Coastal Change Processes Project