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How the Ocean Works


Shaping the Beach, One Wave at a Time

For years, scientists who study the shoreline have wondered at the apparent fickleness of storms, which can devastate one part of a coastline, yet leave an adjacent part untouched. How can this be? The answer lies in the physics of the nearshore region?the stretch of sand, rock, and water between the dry land behind the beach and the beginning of deep water far from shore.

Shaping the Beach, One Wave at a Time

Voyage to Vailulu’u

It was like a pirate’s treasure map. A dotted line clearly showed the trail, but…