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TITLE: Pfiesteria hurts seafood business, too; Markets: Wholesalers and retailers reassure wary shoppers that their fish and crabs come from any place but the Pocomoke River.

BYLINE: Shanon D. Murray

CREDIT: SUN STAFF

EST. PAGES: 2

DATE: 08/16/97

DOCID: BSUN527769

SOURCE: The Baltimore Sun; BSUN

EDITION: FINAL; SECTION: NEWS; PAGE: 1A

(Copyright 1997 @ The Baltimore Sun Company)

The tide of devastation caused by the Pocomoke River fish kills has washed ashore in the Baltimore area, where seafood wholesalers and retailers said sales of fresh fish have dropped sharply because of public distrust.

"It has been mentally exhausting trying to sell my product to customers who say, `Nah, I think I'm going to leave seafood alone for a while,' " said Patrick Welsh, whose father owns the Reliant Fish Co., a seafood wholesaler in Jessup.

"We're hurt economically," Welsh said. "Our business is off by at least 50 percent. Fresh fish, crab, shrimp. It's impacted everything that begins with `sea' and ends with `food.' "

At Baltimore-based Food King, seafood sales in the chain's seven stores are off by about half.

Its Reisterstown Plaza store usually orders 1,500 pounds of fresh fish on Fridays for sale during its typical weekend rush. But yesterday the store ordered only 150 pounds, said Herbert Beckenheimer, the chain's chief executive officer.

"People are scared to death," he said.

To try to reassure customers, Beckenheimer posted signs Thursday near the entrance and seafood departments of his stores notifying customers that the fresh fish was purchased in Virginia, the Carolinas, New England, and areas of the Chesapeake Bay -- not the Pocomoke.

Other supermarket chains, such as Giant Food Inc., have begun to do the same.

The situation has prompted the Maryland Department of Agriculture to plan distribution of a fact sheet early next week reassuring customers about the area's seafood.

"We will let people know that the rest of the Chesapeake Bay is healthy and they don't have anything to worry about," said Bill Seiling, the department's chief of seafood marketing.

The Pocomoke River on the lower Eastern Shore is not a major commercial harvesting area. Even if Pocomoke River fish were for sale, Seiling added, cooking would kill the algae called Pfiesteria piscicida, a toxic microorganism thought to be the cause of death of Pocomoke fish found with lesions.

A 4.5-mile stretch of the river was closed to fishing, crabbing and other recreational uses on Aug. 7 and reopened six days later. State biologists are continuing to monitor the water quality in the river.

Seiling said that seafood harvested in the larger network of estuaries and bays that make up the Chesapeake Bay watershed is safe.

While many seafood wholesalers and retailers are reporting their sales down between 40 percent and 75 percent, the larger supermarket chains say customers have made inquiries but are still buying.

That's far from the case at the Broadway Fish Market in Fells Point. "This fish scare has taken its toll on us," said Laura Fertitta, who owns the market with her husband, Carmelo. "People are also staying away from our crabs and shrimp."

"It's crazy because all you have to do is look at our beautiful display and you can see that our fish is not sick," she said. "But you know what people are saying? They say stuff like `Well, maybe these fish just swam through the Pocomoke.'

"Customers are getting ridiculous now," Fertitta said.

At Waverly Crabs in Baltimore, customers are asking -- but most are still buying. "Sales have dropped off, but they aren't horrible," said Scott Schoenberger, the store manager. "The first question everyone asks is where do we get our crabs.

"Once we tell them North Carolina, they usually buy from us," he said.

Yesterday, at the Food King on Wabash Avenue, Sandra Bolden of Reisterstown was about to skip the seafood, declaring, "I don't know. The fish is sick."

But upon closer inspection, she decided to buy some steak fish and oyster trout.

"They look healthier this week," she said. "I just think it's important to be cautious."

Pub Date: 8/16/97