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Catalog
Coastal Processes: Waves, Tides, and Currents
Perigean Spring Tides -- Predicting
Potential Disasters: How Tidal Information May Save You From a Coastal
Crisis
Helpful to educators and students.
Giese, G.S.
Marine Extension Bulletin, 2 pp., 1998 WHOI-G-98-007
Also available online: click
here
The Coupling Between Harbor Seiches
at Palawan Island and Sulu Sea Internal Solitons
Giese, G.S., D. Chapman, and M. Goud Collins
Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 28, pp. 2418-2426, 1998 WHOI-R-98-006
Hydrodynamical Modeling of a Multiple-inlet
Estuary/Barrier System: Insight into Tidal Inlet Formation and Stability
Friedrichs, C.T., D.G. Aubrey, G.S. Giese, and P.E. Speer
In: Aubrey, D.G. and G.S. Giese (eds.), Formation and Evolution
of Multiple Tidal Inlets, Coastal and Estuarine Studies, American
Geophysical Union, Washington, D.C., Vol. 44, pp. 95-112, 1993 WHOI-R-93-010
Coastal Seiches
Giese, G.S. and D.C. Chapman
Oceanus, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp. 38-46, 1993 WHOI-R-93-002
Tidal Residual Currents and Sediment
Transport Through Multiple Tidal Inlets
Liu, J.T. and D.G. Aubrey
In: Aubrey, D.G. and G.S. Giese (eds.), Formation and Evolution
of Multiple Tidal Inlets, Coastal and Estuarine Studies, American
Geophysical Union, Washington, D.C., Vol. 44, pp. 113-157, 1993
WHOI-R-93-011
Non-linear Hydrodynamics of Shallow
Tidal Inlet/Bay Systems
Speer, P.E., D.G. Aubrey, and C.T. Freidrichs
In: Parker, B.B. (ed.), Tidal Hydrodynamics, John Wiley & Sons,
Inc., New York, 883 pp., pp. 321-339, 1991 WHOI-R-91-010
Shallow tidal inlet/bay systems, common along the New England coast
and elsewhere, appear to result from a combination of small physical
scale and large offshore tidal amplitude relative to distal channel
depths. Shoaling channels effectively truncate the lowest portion
of the tide, resulting in an extended falling tide and a slow shallow
ebb flow. These systems are analogous to tides propagating up rivers,
but important distinctions exist. This study investigates tidal
distortion in detail at six such systems, using multiple tide records
within individual systems, variations in offshore tidal forcing,
and numerical modeling.
Tidal Velocity Asymmetries and Bedload
Transport in Shallow Embayments
Fry, V. and D.G. Aubrey
Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, Vol. 30, pp. 453-473, 1990
WHOI-R-90-008
Tidal circulation can cause a net transport of sediment when the
tidal velocity is asymmetric about a zero mean (flood or ebb dominant)
and the sediment transport rate is related nonlinearly to velocity.
The relationship between tidal elevation and velocity is elucidated
here to permit determination from tide gauge data and sediment transport
relations whether tidal asymmetry needs to be considered as a mechanism
for net sediment transport in the embayment of interest. A relationship
between elevation and velocity in a shallow water, nonlinear system
is derived through the continuity equation and shown to be significantly
different than the linear relation. Finite difference numerical
solutions of the one-dimensional, shallow water nonlinear equations
are compared to the continuity relation and are in agreement especially
toward the landward end of the channel. Tide gauge data collected
at the landward end of the embayment are most useful for predicting
velocity asymmetries throughout a major portion of the embayment
channel. The ratio of flood-to-ebb bedload transport and its relation
to an asymmetric tidal elevation has been determined for both the
linear relation between elevation and velocity and the nonlinear
relation. Results show that the ratio of flood-to-ebb bedload transport
as calculated from the nonlinear relation between elevation and
velocity is similar to the flood-to-ebb ratio calculated from the
linear relation because of offsetting effects.
Seasonal Climatology of Tidal Non-linearities
in a Shallow Estuary
Aubrey, D.G. and C.T. Freidrichs
In: Aubrey, D.G. and L. Weishar (eds.), Hydrodynamics and Sediment
Dynamics of Tidal Inlets, Lecture Notes on Coastal and Estuarine
Studies, Springer-Verlag New York, Inc., Vol. 29, pp. 103-124, 1988
WHOI-R-88-022
Non-linear Tidal Distortion in Shallow
Well-mixed Estuaries: A Synthesis
Freidrichs, C.T. and D.G. Aubrey
Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, Vol. 27, pp. 521-545, 1988
WHOI-R-88-018
A Finite-depth Wind-wave Model. Part
I: Model Description
Graber, H.C. and O.S. Madsen
Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 18, No. 11, pp. 1465-1483,
1988 WHOI-R-88-020
Tide and Wind-forced Currents in Buzzards
Bay, Massachusetts
Only
available on loan from the National Sea Grant Library
Signell, R.P.
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Technical Report WHOI-87-15,
86 pp., 1987 WHOI-T-87-003
The transport and dispersion of waterborne tracers (e.g. pollutants,
larvae, and salt) are often of primary interest in shallow bays
and estuaries. These processes often depend most importantly on
the low-frequency and mean currents even when the instantaneous
flow is dominated by tidal currents. This paper describes and explains
the mean and low-frequency current response in a typical tidally-dominated
coastal embayment with a contamination problem (Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts).
Kinematic and Dynamic Estimates from
Electromagnetic Current Meter Data
Aubrey, D.G. and J.H. Trowbridge
Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 90, No. C5, pp. 9137-9146,
1985 WHOI-R-85-006
Comprehensive laboratory measurements and a thorough review of applicable
literature show that electromagnetic current meters (manufactured
by Marsh-McBurney, Inc.) are adequate for many kinematic measurements
but may lead to excessive errors when using velocity to calculate
dynamical quantities (such as bottom friction, Reynolds stress,
or log-layer friction velocities). These studies point out a potential
difficulty in using these meters in areas of large ambient turbulence
levels (20% turbulent intensities), which are characteristic of
many near-bottom shallow water environments. Further study is needed
to clarify this behavior.
Use of Radio-controlled Miniature
Aircraft for Drifter and Dye Current Studies in a Tidal Inlet
Hess, F.R. and D.G. Aubrey
Limnol. Oceanogr., Vol. 30, No. 2, pp. 426-431, 1985 WHOI-R-85-002
A commercially available radio-controlled miniature aircraft was
modified and deployed as part of a field study of the ebbtidal flow
characteristics of a natural, unstructured tidal inlet. To complement
Eulerian current measurements within the main inlet channel, surface
drifter and rhodamine dye patches were observed from the miniature
aircraft and recorded with a 35- mm camera. Position reference was
provided with an array of precisely located markers on land and
in the water. The miniature aircraft is an inexpensive, accurate
alternative for Lagrangian studies in tidal inlets and estuaries,
with many advantages over alternate techniques (such as hot-air
balloons, fixed platforms, manned aircraft, or chaser boats).
A Study of Non-linear Tidal Propagation
in Shallow Inlet/Estuarine Systems. Part II: Theory
Speer, P.E. and D.G. Aubrey
Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, Vol. 21, pp. 207-224, 1985
WHOI-R-85-009
Performance of Bottom-mounted Directional
Wave Gauges
Aubrey, D.G. and W. Hill
Proceedings of Oceans, IEEE, New York, pp. 705-710, 1984 WHOI-R-84-012
Dynamic Response of Spherical Electromagnetic
Current Meters
Aubrey, D.G., J.H. Trowbridge, and W.D. Spencer
Proceedings of Oceans, IEEE, New York, pp. 242-248, 1984 WHOI-R-84-011
Dynamic Response of Electromagnetic
Current Meters
Only
available on loan from the National Sea Grant Library
Aubrey, D.G., W.D. Spencer, and J.H. Trowbridge
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Technical Report WHOI-84-20,
150 pp., 1984 WHOI-T-84-002
Tidal Distortion in Shallow Estuaries
Only
available on loan from the National Sea Grant Library
Speer, P.E.
Ph.D. Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology/Woods Hole Oceanographic
Institution Joint Program in Oceanography, 210 pp., 1984 WHOI-X-84-001
Beach Changes on Coasts with Different
Wave Climates
Aubrey, D.G.
In: McLachland, A. and T. Erasmus, (eds.), Sandy Beaches as Ecosystems,
D.W. Junk Publishers, The Hague, Netherlands, pp. 63-85, 1983 WHOI-R-83-017
Seasonal and longer-term beach variability is quantified for seven
U.S. beaches exposed to widely varying wave climates. One west coast
location (southern California) and six east coast locations (from
North Carolina to Massachusetts) form the basis of this study. Wave
exposure varies from complete exposure to open waves, to partly
sheltered locations, and finally to nearly complete sheltering where
locally-generated waves dominate. Magnitude of annual beach variability
ranged from 3.3 cubic metres to 0.2 cubic metres per metre of beach,
with the greatest variability in regions exposed to open ocean waves
and the lowest variability along protected coasts. All open coast
locations studied had a seasonal variability which accounted for
at least 50% of the beach variability. Protected coastal locations
had less pronounced seasonal signatures. These seasonal and aseasonal
beach responses mirror corresponding seasonality (or lack thereof)
in wave and storm climates. The study re-emphasizes the need for
careful measurement or estimation of coastal wave climate to enable
predictive modelling of shoreline behaviour, and discusses different
analysis techniques for analyzing changes in beach profiles through
time.
A Continental Shelf Bottom Boundary
Layer Model: The Effects of Waves, Currents, and a Moveable Bed
Only
available on loan from the National Sea Grant Library
Glenn, S.M.
Ph.D. Thesis. Massachusetts Institute of Technology/Woods Hole Oceanographic
Institution Joint Program in Oceanographic Engineering, 1 p. (abstract
only), 1983 WHOI-X-83-001
Field Intercomparison of Nearshore
Directional Wave Sensors
Grosskopf, W.G., D.G. Aubrey, M.G. Mattie, and M. Mathiesen
Journal of Oceanic Engineering, Vol. OE-8, No. 4, pp. 254-271, 1983
WHOI-R-83-012
Field Evaluation of Sea Data Directional
Wave Gage (Model 635-9)
Only
available on loan from the National Sea Grant Library
Aubrey, D.G.
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Technical Report WHOI-81-28,
53 pp., 1981 WHOI-T-81-001
Development and Application of a Field
Instrumentation System for the Investigation of Surf Zone Hydrodynamics
Only
available on loan from the National Sea Grant Library
Greer, M.N.
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Technical Report WHOI-80-36,
159 pp., 1980 WHOI-Y1-80-001
A Laser Velocimeter for Use in Coastal
Boundary Layer Studies
Terry, W.E., W.D. Grant, A.J. Williams III, and L.P. Sanford
Oceans '80, IEEE, New York, pp. 216-219, 1980 WHOI-R-80-026
Short Arm Electric Field Measurements
of Ocean Currents
Only
available on loan from the National Sea Grant Library
Williams, A.J., R.J. Jaffee, P.F. Poranski, and P.J. Simonetti
1972 WHOI-T-72-002
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